So many of my trips in Kabul are work - well, in fact, all of them are. But on my recent trip to Herat I was able to spend a night playing tourist. Traveling with the Ambassador's party for an overnight stay, I was joined by three journalists, two Afghans and Deb from the AP. Our group visited several interesting sites (next installment) but the schedule for press ended at 5:00 pm. This meant I was free to take the journalists to their hotel and then out to dinner.
I really enjoy getting to spend time with journalists this way as I learn what matters to them and how they work. Usually we are in that dance between journalist and press officer - something that makes friendship or easy moments with journalists more difficult. But on this trip I was able to go shopping for carpets and sweets (Herati sweets are famous in Afghanistan according to VOA Afghan journalist Sarwan), visit a few sites, and eat out.
Herat is in Western Afghanistan, fairly close to Iran, and has a strong Iranian influence. It is clean and orderly, especially compared to Kabul, and because of a very different security situation, the consulate employees are able to travel much more freely in the city. This meant shopping in a local carpet store (instead of a bazaar at ISAF or Camp Eggers) and walking around the incredible Blue Mosque.
Being a tourist (if only for a few hours) in Afghanistan is great - and Herat, the third largest city in Afghanistan, is beautiful. It has an amazing history, beautiful Islamic art, and a very friendly population. I met and engaged with some adorable children outside of a bread factory we visited and had a long conversation in Dari with the waiter at dinner. I even had a few rare silent moments at the mosque on a rainy morning.
But my favorite moment on the trip was seeing the minarets of Herat. They were built under the patronage of the wife of Shah Rukh - Gowhar Shad. She was a key supporter of the arts in her time (hundreds of years ago) and the minarets were part of her masterpiece which included a mosque, madrassa and her mausoleum. There were originally over twenty minarets but unfortunately only five remain. And as you can see from the photo, a road runs right through the middle of the site. The U.S. government is working with the Afghans and other international agencies to move the road and protect this key cultural landmark, but, as with so many things in Afghanistan, time will be key. I was seeing them but thinking I hope to return someday to see them restored and protected as a UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site. 